| Make your own long point .0002" indicator | By replacing the contact point on Compac model 215GA test indicator with the 1.44" long point (part number 018660-09) you in effect change the dial graduations from .0001" to .0002". Additionally, each revolution equals .008" and the overall travel becomes .048". The indicator will be accurate but you must be sure to mark the tool so that it isn't used by someone else under the mistaken assumption that it still reads in .0001". Similarly, you can replace the standard point on Interapid test indicators with the special 1.450" length point (see contact point list on page 21) to achieve the effect mentioned above. If you need longer points, Interapid offers two models of .0005" test indicators which come equipped with 2.75" length contact points. There are no equivalent .0001" models available. See Interapid on page 23. Additional contact point information - ordering information | Contact point lengths | It is imperative that the correct LENGTH of contact point be used with dial test indicators. Test indicators rely on leverage ratios to amplify the readings. Changing the length of the contact point (from the center of the ball to the center of the pivot) will alter the ratio and result in incorrect readings. The common problem of incremental errors (ie, the readings gradually get worse from one revolution to the next) is most likely due to the installation of the wrong length point. Most manufacturers specify the proper point length in their catalogs. It is not always clear how the over-all length of the point is measured. Compac contact points should be measured from the center of the carbide ball to the far end of the threads even though the manufacturer's catalog shows otherwise (it's a misprint). The standard method of measuring Interapid, Bestest, Tesatast, Mitutoyo and other contact point lengths sounds complex: one takes the overall length of the contact point, from end-to-end, then subtracts the length of the threaded portion of the contact point, and subtracts one-half the diameter of the spherical ball at the end of the contact point. Some end-users purposely install extra-long contact points because their application requires it. This results in erroneous readings on the dial and is okay as long as the operator is aware of it. If the indicator is only used for centering, then this may be acceptable. Most manufacturers make indicators designed specifically for use with long contact points. Compac test indicators have the letter designation "L" as a component of their model numbers. Interapid indicators can be fitted with long (1.45") contact points but all dial readings must be doubled to obtain correct readings. Even longer points (up to 5-1/2 inches) are available for Interapid indicators. Catalogs which sell dial test indicators will often publish the proper length and method of measurement of the point which must be used with a particular model. For greatest reliability it is best to contact the manufacturer to obtain correct contact point information. Click here for detailed information on contact point lengths Contact points can have a variety of ball diameters typically ranging from .015" to .120" and are available in a variety of materials. For general work, it is highly recommended that contact points fitted with carbide balls be used, especially for .0001" indicators. The size of the ball diameter has no effect on the indicator's accuracy. | Crystal insertion | The crystals (clear plastic) for test indicators, dial indicators and calipers are typically larger than the bezel for which they are designed. New crystals are also flat. They become domed once they are inserted, under pressure. An old crystal will appear domed because, after a long time, it will take on this shape. Unfortunately, at this point it will also fall out easily. The crystals have a beveled edge which will fit into the groove on the upper part of the bezel, but must be inserted in a concave (domed) manner so that the crystal will remain in place under pressure, and so that the plastic clears the movable dial hand. A crystal press is usually required to give the plastic lens its concave shape. (Bestest indicators and B&S calipers, see below.) Place the crystal and bezel in the press, in the correct orientation (take into consideration the beveled edge) and while the press is bending the plastic, gently snap the bezel into place. Release the press and the crystal will be firmly seated and have the correct curvature. The press can not be used with crystals made of glass. 
Crystal Press shown with various inserts (included) This hand operated press will allow you to insert crystals into bezels on test indicators (except B&S and Tesa) and dial indicators up to 2-1/4" diameter. Comes with 8 different inserts as shown above. Order no. M7000 .... $213.00 order now Glue or cement is never used to hold the crystal in place. Some manufacturers may use a thin bead of silicon to create a waterproof seal. This is a tricky maneuver and should only be attempted with caution. While home-made presses can be improvised, for frequent use and reliable results we suggest ordering the portable Crystal Press #M7000 shown above. It allows for easy crystal replacement on all size test indicators and AGD series 1 and 2 dial indicators. Why didn't we think of this before? It may be easier to just buy a new bezel with a crystal already installed. If you don't have a crystal press, it's the way to go. Tell us what you need and we should be able to provide it. (Check our online parts lists for ordering numbers.) On the other hand, you can send us the indicator or calipers along with a check for $22 and we'll install the crystal (as long as the bezel or indicator isn't otherwise damaged, and as long as we're not dealing with a specialty crystal such as Intertest). Return shipping is included in the price. Click here to print a packing list to make it easy. By the way, we'll replace test indicator crystals free of charge if you bought the indicator from us.
| Crystal insertion - test indicators | We list the indicators here by their manufacturers' names. Many indicators are sold with vanity names, so you may have to find out who the real manufacturer is. Crystal prices: $4.75 and up. Click on any part number to order online. Alina: loosen, but don't remove, the three tiny screws under the bezel which can now be pried off, with your hands, like the lid of a take-away coffee cup. You may have to twist and turn the bezel a bit until it works. They can occasionally be stubborn. You'll need a press to insert crystal #195 (small) or #415 (large). Bestest (current models): the old crystals are removed with a special tool which acts like a suction cup. You can improvise other methods but you're likely to cause damage. Often times the new crystal, which is slightly convex, can be snapped in by hand, but even here, special equipment is used to avoid damage to the indicator. It's best to leave this to someone with the right tools. See online parts list. Bestest (old models): the bezel can be pried off with a flat bladed screw driver. A metal spacing ring is removed from behind and the old crystal is pushed out with your thumb. Careful you don't cut yourself on the metal bezel. The new bezel is pushed in from below, again with your thumb. It is slightly over sized so that it will become convex in the process. The metal retainer is also put back in and the bezel is pressed back in place on the indicator. Use crystal #395 (for the large bezel) and #240 (for the small 28mm bezel). Compac: remove the spring which is visible in the groove on the underside of the bezel. Use a thin needle to get the spring out. Try not to bend this spring out of shape. The bezel, if undamaged, lifts off easily. There is no need to remove anything else. You'll need to use a crystal press to get the new crystal into the bezel. Swiss crystals are brittle. If you apply too much pressure with the press, they'll shatter. When assembling make sure the tab on the outer dial fits into the space allotted for it on the inside of the bezel. If the bezel now turns too easily or too hard you can make adjustments by reshaping the spring. See online parts list. Federal Testmaster: The old style Testmaster indicator has a bezel which can be tricky to remove. A slot on the side of the bezel will allow you to depress the spring which holds the bezel in place. Rotate the bezel until the spring is visible and then use a thin bladed screw driver to press the spring. If you can't get this to work and resort to prying the bezel off, you will inflict some damage on the top plate. The small bezel (about 1" diameter) takes crystal #210 which must be inserted with a press. Fowler-Verdict old style indicators made in England use crystal #395 on the approx. 1.5" diameter bezel which need to be inserted with a press. The bezel can be pried off with a screw driver. Girod: the thin-walled bezel can be carefully pried off with a screwdriver. The new crystal #395 (for the large bezel) and #240 (for 28mm bezel) can be pressed into the bezel from below using your thumbs. Don't forget to put the spacing ring back before pressing the bezel onto the body. Interapid: the bezel is threaded and unscrews. Hold the lower bezel plate steady with a small screw driver placed in one of the two holes while you unscrew the bezel. See online parts list. Kafer: once you (carefully) pry off the retaining ring on top, the crystal just drops out. Replace it and you're set to go. (Replacement crystals available soon.) Mahr: (Puppitast) has a thin-walled bezel which can be pried off with a screwdriver, but do this carefully. The new crystal #240 (for the small faced models) can be pressed into the bezel from below. No special equipment is needed. Remember to put the spacing ring back into place before pressing the bezel back onto the indicator. The larger diameter bezels (about 1-5/8 inch) behave the same way and require crystal #415. The old models lift off the same way but they don't have a spacing ring and you'll need a crystal press to insert crystal #415 into the 40 mm diameter bezels. Mahr-Federal new style indicators "MarTest" have bezels which ride on a rubber o-ring. They can be pried off but you'll need a press to insert crystal #415 into the 1.5" diameter bezel. The smaller 30 mm bezel will take crystal #250. Mitutoyo: newer models have plastic bezel & crystal combinations which snap on and off. Older models have bezels which can be pried off with a small screw driver. For the new series 513-412 and similar models (the combination black plastic bezel and crystal) you may also have to replace the rubber o-ring if the old one has stretched out of shape. The fit should be snug. See page 162 for a parts list. Peacock: (Pic Test) a wire spring holds the 34 mm diameter bezel in place. Three very small screws hold the 47 mm bezel in place. Don't lose these screws! Crystals are not available from us. SPI: some of these models are made in China. Usually, when there is no country of origin printed on the dial, it's Chinese. If the outside diameter of the bezel is 30 mm, then crystal #250 may fit. The bezel can be pried off with a flat blade screwdriver but you will need a crystal press to install the new crystal. If the SPI indicator is made in Japan, then you'll want to refer to Teclock below. If it is made in Switzerland, then you'll want to see Compac above. If you're not sure, just send us the indicator with "replace crystal only" instructions. Starrett Last Word: remove the chrome bezel by prying it off with a screw driver and replace the crystal with part #7112. If your indicator still has a wire spacer, throw the wire away. The new crystals don't need this spacer. A pair of jeweler's pliers will help you squeeze the bezel back into place. Starrett: the bezels for new models 709A are held on by an o-ring. Use a screwdriver to wedge the bezel off. You'll need a crystal press to insert crystal #375. Snap the bezel back on. Teclock: assuming the dial diameter on this test indicator is about 1-3/8" then you'll want crystal #S035691. You'll find a retaining spring on the underside of the bezel which has to pried out with a pointy tool. When the bezel is off, you can pop out the old crystal using your thumbs (careful you don't cut yourself). The new crystal can be pressed in place with your fingers if the bezel is still round and in good condition. Otherwise, a crystal press will help insert it. Tesatast: (old models without model numbers) the thin-walled bezel can be carefully pried off with a screwdriver. The new crystal #395 (for the large bezel) and #240 (for 28mm bezel) can be pressed into the bezel from below using your thumbs. Don't forget to put the spacing ring back before pressing the bezel onto the body. For new models, see Bestest above.
| Crystal insertion - dial calipers | Crystal prices: $4.25 and up. Click on any part number to order online. B&S (Tesa and Etalon): refer to Bestest indicator above. The same applies here. See online parts list. Kanon: we do not have the original pre-domed crystals for the 6" calipers, but you can insert flat crystal #355 with a crystal press. Mitutoyo: crystal #395 is flat, slightly over-sized (37.7 mm in diameter) and becomes domed when you press it in place. Crystal #345 is flat, slightly over-sized (34.8 mm in diameter) and also becomes domed when you press it in place. For 12" model 505-628-50 use crystal #460. Measure the diameter of the bezel to determine which crystal to use, or include the Mitutoyo model number when ordering. You will also find crystal and bezel combination at our online parts list. SPI and other made in China calipers. If the bezel pries off and there's a plastic spacing ring underneath the old crystal, and the inner diameter of the bezel, measured from below, is 42.5 mm then proceed as follows: remove the spacing ring and press out the old crystal by hand. Be aware that you may cut your thumbs doing this. You can then install crystal #480 by pressing it into place, from below, so that it becomes slightly convex. Replace the spacing ring and press the bezel back onto the calipers. If your caliper does not fit this description, we can't help you. Starrett model 120-6 and 120A-6 calipers: since you'll need a press to insert the crystal, you may be better off ordering the bezel and crystal assembly instead. This way there's "no assembly required." The new bezels are held in place with an o-ring so you'll have to pry off the bezel, slowly, with something like a large blade screwdriver. See online parts list. | Crystal insertion - dial indicators | Crystal prices: $4.25 and up. Click on any part number to order online. Aerospace: these cheap made-in-China indicators aren't worth fixing, but you can replace the crystal, if you can get hold of one. The thin bezel pries off with a screw driver (put the whole indicator in a vise so you can get leverage) and no tools are required to put a new flat crystal in place. We do not carry these crystals. Ames: a split retaining ring holds the old-style bezel in place. Carefully pry it out and the bezel will lift off. The new crystal is pressed in place from below with considerable force and it's not unlikely that the crystal will be damaged in the process. Use extreme caution. For Series 200 models order crystal #645. Boice (discontinued) bezels are held on with a wire spring. You can pry the bezel off with a large blade screw driver. You'll need a crystal press to insert crystal #640. Brown & Sharpe (made in Switzerland): most of these new models have unit bezels and the crystal has to be pried out. Use your ingenuity but be careful not to damage the dial or bend the hand. We don't yet know how best to insert a new crystal nor what the proper sizes are. They snap in place like the Bestest indicators and one assumes that a similar inserting mechanism is used by the manufacturer. Since these gages are inexpensive, in the realm of things, they're considered "throw-aways" by the manufacturer and were not designed for easy servicing. CDI: the 2-1/4" diameter bezel can be pried off—it rides on a plastic o-ring. Crystal #645 is inserted with a crystal press. Getting the bezel back on can be a task. It's a tight fit over the o-ring. Make sure the small tab on the inside of the bezel fits into the slot on the dial. Group 3 indicators with 2-3/4" diameter bezels have 3 screws in the side of the bezel which need to be taken out. Don't lose these! You can insert #840 crystal with a press. China: The approx. 2-1/4" bezels take crystal #660. Remove the back cover and you'll notice a screw which holds a small sliding tab in position. Loosen this screw just enough to slide the tab back. The bezel will now lift off by pivoting it. Be careful not to lose the small wire spring which is also used to hold the bezel. The crystals we provide are flat and require a crystal press for insertion. Dorsey: AGD 2 indicators have two springs holding the bezel in place. Remove the back cover and pull the springs back. The bezel will lift off, one side at a time. Be careful you don't lose the springs. Crystal #660 needs to be inserted with a press. AGD 4 indicators use crystal #47084 which, being oversized, needs a press for insertion and the edge of the crystal may benefit from a little bit of scraping to reduce the diameter. If the crystal lies flat (without a dome) however, it will touch the pointer (which is very delicate). Proceed with utmost caution. 3 hex screws hold the bezel in place. Federal: three small screws in the side of the bezel hold it in place. Don't lose the screws because they are mighty expensive to replace. The newest Federal models have an o-ring. You simply pry the bezel off with the blade of a screw driver. For Federal crystals, see page 191. Kafer: the two tolerance marker rings have to be pried out on the AGD 2 dial indicators. Be careful, if the bezel is plastic you will probably damage it. The crystal can easily be removed and replaced without any tools. For plastic crystal order Kafer #52101 and glass crystal order Kafer #52102. See online parts list. Mahr-Federal: The newest style indicator has a plastic bezel which pries off like the lid on a coffee cup. You can use a large flat-bladed screw driver to help. You'll notice there's no o-ring but a raised ridge inside the bezel which snaps into the groove on the indicator's body. There may be tolerance markers which can easily be removed if you grab the tabs with jeweler's pliers and pull inwards, towards the center of the bezel. The old crystal snaps out with a bit of force. The new crystal #645 is inserted with a press, again using considerable force because of the deep recess of the groove. You may be better off just buying a new bezel and crystal assembly in this case. See our parts list on page 72 for availability. Mitutoyo: the newest models have the letter "S" attached such as 2416S. These have a single unit plastic bezel and crystal which snap on over a rubber o-ring. The crystal may pop out leading you to believe that it's replaceable. It isn't; but, if you're very careful, you can attempt to glue it back in place although we don't recommend this. See Mitutoyo parts lists for ordering numbers. The oldest models had a flat crystal which needs to be inserted with a press so that it becomes domed. The AGD 2 indicators (they have a bezel diameter of about 2-1/4 inches) use crystal #645. Peacock: we don't know enough about every Peacock model, but #1364 indicator with a 2-1/4" OD bezel will take crystal #620. This is not the original manufacturer's crystal, but it'll do in a pinch. It's flat and needs a press for insertion. After insertion it will be slightly domed. Remove the 3 small screws on the side of the bezel (don't lose them - we don't have these parts) and carefully lift the bezel off it's o-ring. The inner dial is more or less permanently staked to the bezel. It will lift off also and could damage the large hand if you don't watch out. Scherr-Tumico: Some of the bezels have a large hole on the side. You'll find 3 screw heads by rotating the hole. Unscrew all of these and don't lose them! (We don't have these parts.) Crystal #645 can be inserted with a crystal press. SPI: most SPI dial indicators are made in China. See instructions under "China" above. Standard (Poughkeepsie models only): The newer, but discontinued style AGD2 indicators with ~2-1/4" bezel diameters and two small screws holding the inner dial in place will take crystal #645. These bezels are held in place with a nylon o-ring. Use a large bladed screwdriver to pry the bezel off. A crystal press is needed to insert the crystal. It may be hard to get the bezel to snap back onto the o-ring. Press down firmly and squarely with the palm of your hand. Starrett: the old style size 2 dial indicators have a small hole on the side of the bezel. You're supposed to be able to depress the bezel spring, which holds the bezel on, through this hole using a small pin. Crystal #640 will need to be inserted with a crystal press. Good luck to you. If you get it just right it'll work. - The new style AGD 2 size bezel series 25 snaps on and off. To get it off you'll want to press on one of the three plastic tabs you'll see underneath the bezel. Crystal #645 will need to be inserted with a crystal press.
- For indicator series 80 (the miniature dial indicator) the bezel can be pried off with a screw driver; If the wire retaining ring becomes distorted in the process, bend it back into shape. You'll need a press to install the new crystal. See parts list.
- Series 81 uses crystal #430
- Series 641 uses crystal #430
- Series 655 uses crystal #840
- Back-plunger model 196 uses crystal #375. Replacement is similar to the Last Word test indicator (see above).
Teclock: the blue bezel of Model AI-921N rides on an o-ring and it can be pried off. Flat crystal #645 needs to be installed with a crystal press. It may be hard to get the bezel to snap back onto the o-ring. Press down firmly and squarely with the palm of your hand. Newer versions of these indicators use crystal #660. If you need a new crystal for the Teclock indicator, send us the entire gage along with a check for $21 and we'll install the appropriate crystal for you (shipping included). That way you'll know you're getting the correct size.
| Crystal insertion - miscellaneous | Intertest: (caliper gage) The oldest models have metal bezels and crystal #620 is inserted with a crystal press. You'll have to remove the bezel to do this. Remove the instrument's back and you'll see the clamping mechanism that holds the bezel in place. Use caution since a slip of the hand can easily damage the plastic gears. The older model Intertest, many of which are still in circulation, have a single bezel-crystal combination of clear plastic. It would seem to be an easy thing to replace this item. The old crystal can be pried off with a large blade screwdriver. Since rotating the crystal should also cause the dial to rotate, you'll have to line up a plastic tab on the inside of the new crystal with the notch in the dial. In theory, the new crystal snaps back on. Press squarely down on the crystal until it's in place. In practice, this often requires a bit of finagling on your part, including slight modification of the crystal in some cases. If the Intertest crystal rides on 3 steel balls, then you'll probably have trouble rotating the dial. You may have to live with this. If it snaps over a plastic o-ring, the dial may buckle or the whole thing barely fits. Occasionally, several small plastic tabs on the inside of the crystal may have to be filed away for a better fit. These crystals aren't cheap, so use caution. See Intertest for ordering information. Teclock: (pocket thickness gage) Remove the cover plate held on with a single screw. Lift the adhesive back and loosen, but don't remove, the two exposed screws. The tabs under the screws slide back so that the bezel will lift off. Crystal #530 can be inserted with a press. Correx Gram Force Gage: the crystal falls out easily once you remove the retaining spring from above. New crystals with the maximum pointer assembly are available for easy replacement. Before installing the new unit, test the maximum pointer. It shouldn't move on its own, yet it should have almost no friction. The small screw can be used to make adjustments. (Word of caution: don't disassemble.) Also, check that the maximum pointer doesn't touch the dial when you reassemble. Bend it a little bit if necessary. See Correx information on page 10.
| Etalon micrometer spindle locks | The very oldest lock for micrometers was made in the 1950's. They are metal and have an eccentric cam lock. These are no longer available. The older model Etalon indicating micrometers (1960-1990) have plastic spindle locks which wear out rather quickly from over-tightening. These are no longer available. But there are metal replacements. You can buy this lock and install it yourself. Fortunately the newest and most recent models have an improved metal locking device. This won't retrofit to your older model, however. The new diameters are different.  
Left: #037905 replaces plastic lock - notice the rim - this is often a very tight fit* and may need customization. (made by Etalon) Refer to Etalon parts list Right: #017857 new style lock (OD = .315") for new model micrometers only. Refer to Etalon parts list How to replace: unscrew the spindle completely. The old lock usually pulls out easily. After you've removed the old spindle lock, look for a step (counter bore) measuring .406" x .090" in the micrometer body. The presence of this counter bore indicates that this is a new style lock. Insert the new lock and check to see that the inside of the barrel is clear so that you can screw the spindle back in. Don't force anything. And remember: hand tighten only. That's all there is to it. *If you're trying to install #037905 you may notice that it won't fit. The lock diameter is over-sized and may have to be stoned slightly or turned down. You might be tempted to open the hole on the micrometer instead but we suggest you don't tamper with the micrometer body. If you attempt to force fit the lock you may ruin everything because you might not be able to line up the opening correctly, and you may not be able to remove the lock! Proceed with utmost caution. **If you hand tighten these locks then there's no danger of damaging the expensive spindle. The spindle is made of hardened steel and it would take a major effort to cause damage by over-tightening of these stainless and aluminum screw assemblies.
| Compac and Interapid bore gage clamp | The square shaped clamp on the 2-6" and 2-12" bore gage models which hold the extensions in place is part #040406 (see bore gage parts list). This clamp is sent unfinished. It doesn't have a thread. The reason is, the thread needs to be custom cut to match the thread already in your gage head. If you want to do it yourself, you'll need a metric M12x1 tap. Remove the old clamp, put the unfinished clamp in place and using the thread of the bore gage head as a guide, insert the tap, cutting a thread into the clamp. Of course, if you prefer, we can install this for you. Some customers can't understand that these clamps are sold unfinished and they put up quite a stink when they receive the parts. Be advised: that's the way it is.
| Last Word indicators | Starrett Last Word indicators (model #711) have a contact point which swivels on a ratchet. Sometimes the ratchet doesn't fit well and the contact point will cause the lever arm to jam. You'll have to try another contact point. Sometimes the pivot screw protrudes too much and rubs against the contact point. Again, try another point until one fits. For proper operation make sure the reversing lever is fully engaged up or down and that the contact point is properly seated in the ratchet. If the indicator hand jumps on a regular basis, try de-magnetizing the indicator. Spinning objects and motors can induce magnetic fields in the indicator. If magnetic fields are a problem in your shop environment it may be best to switch to a non-magnetic indicator. Bestest, Compac and Interapid are all suitable alternatives. More details and suggestions are shown on page 117. Contact points for these indicators are available in 3 ball diameter sizes.
| Interapid stem attachments | 
If they're bent or broken you can replace Interapid stem attachments with a bit of care. When you remove the old stem, don't lose the other parts. Unscrew A, tap out the bushing E, pull out the old stem C, save the washer D which goes on the inside, remove B if necessary. Reassemble in reverse order. You will notice that you can increase the swivel friction by tightening screw A. The replacement stem attachment and associated parts can be found on page 88. See more information on Interapid or refer to our online parts list.
| Zero setting Mitutoyo dial calipers | When the jaws are closed on a Mitutoyo dial caliper, the hand should point to zero at the 12 o'clock position. If it's off a bit, that's okay, you can rotate the bezel so that the zero and the hand line up. But if it's off by more than 10 divisions, Mitutoyo has provided a little adjuster (part #M142115) and the following instructions: - Rotate the bezel to bring the zero point to the 12 o'clock position.
- Open the jaws by about 10 to 20 mm and bring the pointer to the zero.
- Insert the adjuster into the groove which you'll find on the rear of the dial.
- When you press down on the adjuster, the pointer won't move and you can slowly close the jaws.
- When you let go, the jaws should be closed and the hand will remain at the 12 o'clock position.
note: on the 0.05mm and .2" per revolution models, you'll have to remove the bezel clamp in order to find the groove on the rear of the dial. further note: zero setting on the "made in Brazil" calipers is not possible without disassembly. For more information on Mitutoyo refer to our contents page.
| Zero setting Starrett calipers | If the hand is no longer set on zero then the gear jumped a tooth because the gage was dropped or hit. It doesn't necessarily mean that there's internal damage. If the caliper still moves smoothly then everything's probably okay. Resetting the hand is a bit tricky but it can be done. Remove the bezel clamp and then tilt the bezel off carefully like the plastic lid on a take-out cup of coffee. (Pretend the coffee's hot.) The hand can then be pried off using a hand lifter or two smallish screwdrivers, one on either side of the pinion. Do this with caution so that you don't break the center pinion in the process. Now realign the hand to zero and tap it back on, gently but securely. Reassemble and you're all set. Don't attempt to play with the movement or to remove it. The gears are preloaded and you'll have a heck-of-a-time trying to get things to work again. If you're squeamish about all of this, send the gage in and we'll straighten things out for you.
| Zero setting Brown & Sharpe calipers | If the hand is no longer set on zero then the gear jumped a tooth because the gage was dropped or hit. It probably means there is a broken tooth, or the gears have slipped. Unfortunately there's no way to deal with this other than attempting a repair.
| Changing contact points | It would seem to be such an intuitive procedure - changing contact points on your test indicator - that writing instructions is almost trivial. There are some pointers which may be of interest, however. The points unscrew or, in the case of Starrett Last Word, Gem, Alina 88 and a few others they snap in place. To unscrew them, you may use fine nosed pliers for this job. If the contact point has a small hole drilled through it, then you may push a pin through this hole and use that to screw and unscrew the point. If the point has two flat spots near the base, then a contact wrench can be used. These come supplied with Bestest and Interapid indicators. They're the circular black disks located in your indicator box and the slots fit perfectly onto the contact point for easy removal. When you put the new point on, don't over tighten. It's a small thread and you may break the point. Also be careful not to damage the carbide ball at the end of the point. If you need a replacement contact wrench for your Interapid or Bestest, check on the parts lists for the ordering number. On the snap-on style test indicators you swivel the contact point holder to the side so that the point can be removed and replaced. You may want to use a small screwdriver to help you swivel the metal plate because it can damage your fingers. You'll also want to make sure that the point sits properly on the ratchet when you're done.
| Mitutoyo pocket thickness gage adjustment | The bezel on Mitutoyo pocket dial thickness gage no. 7308 and 7309 is designed to rotate a little bit to the left and a little bit to the right so you can set the zero. The bezel should stay put, however, and not rotate on its own. If it's loose, carefully peel off the plastic back just enough to expose one of the two holes. A small Phillips head screw driver will allow you to loosen the screw which you'll see inside the case. Loosen it just enough so you can slide the brass clamp a little, then tighten. You'll notice that you can adjust the friction which holds the bezel in place by sliding this clamp in or out.
| Compac new ball bearing design | In 1999 COMPAC redesigned the ball bearings and the pivot assemblies (contact point support) for their 210-220-230-240 series test indicators. The old ball bearings case (ID 3,6 mm) was black while the new ones (ID 2,0 mm) are stainless. Similarly, the pivot assembly comes in old and new styles to match the ball bearings case inner diameter. You will still be able to repair the older models because the new ball bearings and pivot assemblies can be installed in the old indicators. COMPAC claims that adjustments will now be easier and that accuracy will be improved with this change. Series 210-220-230-240: - part #044256 adjustable ball bearing (old)
part #044259 adjustable ball bearing (new) - part #044257 fixed ball bearing (old)
part #044260 fixed ball bearing (new)
Refer to a new parts list which identifies these parts.
| Zero setting Mitutoyo micrometers | Before use, even with a brand new micrometer, be sure that it is set to zero. The manufacturer admonishes us to "observe the following points to correctly zero adjust the micrometer." - Rotate the ratchet stop 1-1/2 to 2 times to exert a constant measuring force.
- Allow sufficient time for the micrometer [to become] thermally stabilized, especially when moved from a significantly different temperature.
- Zero adjust the micrometer in a posture in which measurements are actually performed.
- Use a calibrated standard bar (micrometer standard).
With the spindle closed on the 0-1" micrometer, or closed onto a micrometer standard for larger micrometers, the zero of the barrel should coincide with the zero on the rotating thimble. For instance, on a 1-2" micrometer you must insert a 1" standard and close the thimble. If the zeros don't line up, use the wrench which came with your tool, hook it around the barrel so it fits into the small hole and gently turn the barrel until the zeros line up. If the barrel won't budge, use the back of a screwdriver to gently tap the wrench. Old micrometers may have become corroded and the barrel won't move. In this case you'll have to send it in for reconditioning. Micrometer wrenches are available if you've lost yours.
| Installing Indicator Hands | This should be no problem if you have the right tools. You'll want hand lifters to remove the old hand, a fine reamer, and a small hammer. If needed, check the index on this page to find information on removing the bezel (indicator crystal insertion). See repair tools. New hands usually have holes that are too small to fit onto the pinion. If you try to hammer these on, you'll only bend the pinion and be worse off than before. A very fine reamer is used to open the hole just enough so that the hand can be hammered on with a fit tight enough so that the hand won't come loose. Please don't use glue. This invariably seeps into the works and you'll have wasted both time and money. On dial indicators, according to AGD standards, the hand is set at 9 o'clock. Kafer metric indicators, made in Germany, have the hands set at 6 o'clock. Bestest and many other test indicators are now set at 5 o'clock. This allows you to use the indicator "upside down." Compac long range indicators and some Starrett models are set between 10 and 11 o'clock; those with the standard (one revolution) range are set at 5 o'clock while Mercer short range sets the hand at 11 o'clock. Interapid indicators are set at 12 o'clock. New Mitutoyo model 513 indicators are set at 12 o'clock. Starrett Last Word and some older Mitutoyo indicators need to be set at 6 o'clock so that the hand moves equally in both directions. If the hand is inadvertently set in the wrong position, it will affect neither the indicator's functionality nor its accuracy.
| Standard Bore Gage Do-it-yourself | How easy is it to replace the gaging plunger yourself? Fairly easy, according to our experience as long as you’re not all thumbs. A guide pin has to be adjusted so the new gaging plunger doesn’t stick yet doesn’t turn side to side. The guide pin is then secured with Loctite so it doesn’t work itself loose - but use the removable kind! If you need a new gaging plunger, check our parts list.
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